Chocolate is the Secret Ingredient

8th to 10th March 2018 - Puerto Viejo

Cacao trees among the lush forest in the Caribeans Chocolate Company

So we started in the centre of Costa Rica and from there we went Northeast. We then crossed the country finishing in the Northwest and popping into Nicaragua. Then we headed down to the bottom Southwest corner. So it was only logical to completely cross the country to the Southeast. That consisted of a long day trip in several vehicles to the town of  Puerto Viejo. This lovely little town has a real Caribbean vibe and a Rastafarian culture with stunning beaches, lush jungles and abundant wildlife. 

Even though the first day was raining, we decided to go and do the chocolate tour at the Caribeans Coffee and Chocolate Company. When you are on holiday and only in each place a few days you cannot let the weather slow you down. During a break in the rain we walked the 2.5km to the chocolate plantation. The Costa Rica chocolate industry had been destroyed by a fungus due to settlers wanting to grow bananas. So as to avoid that fate the cacao trees are grown in synergy with the rainforest itself amongst the other flora to give it protection and a unique flavor. 

We learned and experienced a lot on the tour that over time became increasingly wet. We picked, cracked open and tasted the cacao directly from the fruit itself. Back at the main factory we followed the bean through the whole process of drying, roasting and tempering. We also had a chocolate tasting where we helped ourselves to flakes of chocolate and added it to a large variety of spices and herbs such as garlic, pepper, coffee, ginger, cayenne, salt and many more and finished with a chocolate and spices drink. The rain only added to the atmosphere while we enjoyed the explosions of unique flavors and combinations.

Cacao Fruit, Owner, Chocolate Tasting, Making Chocolate

The next day was slightly drier so we took the 5km walk to the Jaguar Rescue Centre. No jaguars in attendance, but it did have a ton of sloths, lots of active baby ones. We learned tons about them including that they can be noisy and fast when fighting and are pretty much grumpy hermits that can be dangerous if you do not leave them alone. That they only go to the toilet once a week, at the base of their own home tree, digestion takes ages, and that a whole ecosystem of other inhabitants live on their fur. Reminded me of a book I used to read to my son called Murgatroyds Garden, about a kid who refused to wash his hair, culminating in his hair becoming a jungle full of creatures.

Sloths

We also saw many mischievous monkeys, some interacting with a very hungry wandering deer and a sprightly small squirrel & a pig. Many other marvelous but damaged animals were seen, looked after by very dedicated and knowledgeable volunteers. 

Dinner, like the night before, was eaten at Madre Tierra, which stands for Mother Earth. With many unique vegetarian gluten free options it was the perfect fit for another slice of Costa Rica fabulousness.

Floating Over Paradise

 4th to 7th March 2018

It was time to have a rest from volcanoes and head to the beach, the beach at Manuel Antonio National Park that is. Listed by Forbes as one of the most beautiful in the world and located at the lower west corner, it was the natural progression of our travels around Costa Rica. 

Hotel Coco Beach was just across the road and a short walk from a long line of beaches and was at the top of a hill surrounded by palm trees. After a day of doing chores and picking up supplies from the nearby town of Quepos we went down to Espadilla Beach. Just before Manuel Antonio Beach, one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, they were offering parasailing tours. We had never parasailed before and being such an idyllic location the decision was made that if we were ever going to do it then this was a good place to do it in. 

Late in the afternoon with the sunset soon approaching we prepared for this new experience. As the tide was coming in we had less run area to get into the air so we needed to get moving fast. As the boat accelerated we parted with the ground but Elizabeth did not quite land her bum in the seat properly. The guy in the boat was waving frantically while Elizabeth kept trying to lift herself into the seat properly as she was half hanging out of the harness. As the guy indicated that he was about to abandon the attempt I reached over and heaved Elizabeth into the seat. Disaster averted we continued on to an amazing ride over the ocean and rocky outcrops as the sun started to set. Coming down was a lot easier as the boat just slows down and you gently parachute into the water. Can I say now that I have parachuted? 

The next day we went to explore the Manuel Antonio National Park. It was a wonderful day in one of the best national parks in the world. It has everything. Abundant wildlife including Capuchin, Howler and Squirrel monkeys and the elusive sloth. In fact along one path you had to watch where you stepped otherwise you might trip over a raccoon. It has wonderful beaches, well marked and numerous trails through dense forest and many high lookouts for amazing sweeping views. We spent all day there, past closing time, attempting to follow every trail, take pictures at every lookout and visit every beach.

That night we had a very satisfying dinner at Las Gemalas Restaurant at a sidewalk table watching fire throwing busking jugglers in the middle of the street. 

The next day was our last day and we spent it lounging on the beach and swimming. It was one of those beaches that stayed shallow for a long time and you had to go quite far to catch a wave, but a very good paddling beach. Hiring a couple of umbrella covered lounge chairs cost $10 and allowed us to enjoy the sunshine safely and comfortably. That night we ate at Las Gemalas again but decided to cross the road and eat at one of their tables that they place on the beach itself. Quite a unique experience dining while under the stars and with sand between your toes and the sounds of waves crashing. Magic.