Old Chevrolets and a Cuban Cigar

 3rd April to 6th April 2018 - Vinales

Two and a half hours west from Havana we arrived at Vinales, a fabulous little town. Staying at another Homestay we were well spoiled by Ana and Dairon. The rooms were really cheap but meals are extra and can be relatively expensive. To compensate the meals were HUGE and way more than we can eat, though we had a good go.

Our homestay and a big breakfast on the balcony

The centre of town was an easy walking distance and had a huge town square area with a community centre that was full of dancing, music and art. This was buzzing with people, not least because it was about the only place you could get internet reception with cards that you brought for $2. This was a great place for people watching and random dancing when the music was right.

The cute little town of Vinales

The next day we arranged a taxi to see the sights. You paid a set fare and they stayed with you all day. First stop was a huge mural on the rock face of a hill that was painted by a local artist and featured the area's prehistoric origins with dinosaurs, people and snakes taking centre stage. Their was also a trail leading up to the foliage along the top which we followed until we ran out of trail. We did get a nice view looking back from right above the mural.

Working on the mural, the mural itself, the view from the top

Next stop was the Santo Tomas cave, the second biggest cave in Central America. What was unique was that unlike the fairly sanitised large caves we normally visit with fancy lights and trails, this one was as is. No fancy lights, no fancy steps and trails or sounds, it was just the cave. Donning hard hats with torches we descended into the bat filled cave. This gave it a completely different feel and it felt more like an eerie adventure. You could see the true colours and contours of the different interiors and rock formations and at one stage we were asked to turn all our lights off and were plunged into total darkness. At another time he played music on a rock formation that was amplified in the unique acoustics of the cave. This was a great experience.

The next day we went for a guided 3 hour walk through the countryside with guide Miguel. It included a tour of a tobacco farm where we were able to sample a genuine Cuban cigar. Much smoother and more enjoyable than expected and I ended up wishing I had smoked a full one, rather than sharing. We washed that down with a glass of Mojitos sweetened with honey instead of the usual sugar. We continued on the walk and soon came across a coffee plantation, a perfect fit after the Mojitos. Instead of coffee though we were treated to a very strong (and yummy) honey and cuban sugar cane rum. This was turning into a very wobbly trek. Fortunately the rest of the trek was more normal, coming across some beautiful countryside, pigs and wooden houses.

Tobacco leaves, enjoying a cigar, making a cigar and leaves drying

That night in the town square we were offered Salsa dancing lessons for $10 and enjoyed half an hour each of private tuition from 2 talented instructors. The next day we hopped in a 1957 Chevrolet Taxi for the return trip back to Havana, staying overnight in our original homestay, before leaving to return home. We really enjoyed our stay in Cuba and the wonderful and helpful people we met despite difficult circumstances. Would love to come back one day.

Ghosts of the Revolution

 31 March to 2 April 2018 - Cuba 

Our cruise finally deposited us back in Havana, Cuba. We stayed in a little homestay with Ana and Caly, who looked after us by providing filling breakfasts and helping us to organise a trip to Venales. They showed tremendous patience dealing with our limited Spanish and frantic hand signals.

Our time in Havana was a real eye opener. Due to decades of embargos there were huge shortages of nearly everything. Restaurants had limited meals available depending on what food they could get on the day and grocery stores were mostly empty. A lot of the cars were over 50 years old and lovingly nursed and cajoled to keep going by whatever means necessary. It was not uncommon to see these old cars in parts on the street being worked on. They gave a lovely atmosphere to the city, which felt like stepping into the past. People were friendly and understanding and we felt quite safe. You get the impression the Cubans look after each other.

Fixing old cars, street art, Hemingway's pub and street soccer.

The next day we went for a walk down the main avenue marveling at the wonderful old building architecture and random artwork and painting occurring down the middle. That night we went to watch the iconic show at the Buena Vista Social Club. The $30 ticket included 2 drinks and a snack (cheese, nuts and olives). The show was extensive and energetic including a fabulous instrumental bit and several times where they got everyone up dancing, including a conga line and finishing with us all dancing on the stage. We walked home safely at midnight, a 30 minute walk.

Buena Vista Social Club, Grand Theatre of Havana

We used the last day to wander through the Museum of the Revolution. It was a fascinating insight into this period and the circumstances surrounding it. The exhibit included the boat they used to carry 82 revolutionaries from Mexico (built to hold 20), a tractor with armour applied (Mad Max style) and a bullet ridden delivery truck. It was interesting to read how with their free education they have one of the highest literacy rates in the world and the most doctors per capita. Clearly they tried to do the best they could with what they had.

Museum of the Revolution

The Capital building

Lots of street activity

Lots of old cars