Friday, December 30, 2022

Old Chevrolets and a Cuban Cigar

 3rd April to 6th April 2018 - Vinales

Two and a half hours west from Havana we arrived at Vinales, a fabulous little town. Staying at another Homestay we were well spoiled by Ana and Dairon. The rooms were really cheap but meals are extra and can be relatively expensive. To compensate the meals were HUGE and way more than we can eat, though we had a good go.

Our homestay and a big breakfast on the balcony

The centre of town was an easy walking distance and had a huge town square area with a community centre that was full of dancing, music and art. This was buzzing with people, not least because it was about the only place you could get internet reception with cards that you brought for $2. This was a great place for people watching and random dancing when the music was right.

The cute little town of Vinales

The next day we arranged a taxi to see the sights. You paid a set fare and they stayed with you all day. First stop was a huge mural on the rock face of a hill that was painted by a local artist and featured the area's prehistoric origins with dinosaurs, people and snakes taking centre stage. Their was also a trail leading up to the foliage along the top which we followed until we ran out of trail. We did get a nice view looking back from right above the mural.

Working on the mural, the mural itself, the view from the top

Next stop was the Santo Tomas cave, the second biggest cave in Central America. What was unique was that unlike the fairly sanitised large caves we normally visit with fancy lights and trails, this one was as is. No fancy lights, no fancy steps and trails or sounds, it was just the cave. Donning hard hats with torches we descended into the bat filled cave. This gave it a completely different feel and it felt more like an eerie adventure. You could see the true colours and contours of the different interiors and rock formations and at one stage we were asked to turn all our lights off and were plunged into total darkness. At another time he played music on a rock formation that was amplified in the unique acoustics of the cave. This was a great experience.



The next day we went for a guided 3 hour walk through the countryside with guide Miguel. It included a tour of a tobacco farm where we were able to sample a genuine Cuban cigar. Much smoother and more enjoyable than expected and I ended up wishing I had smoked a full one, rather than sharing. We washed that down with a glass of Mojitos sweetened with honey instead of the usual sugar. We continued on the walk and soon came across a coffee plantation, a perfect fit after the Mojitos. Instead of coffee though we were treated to a very strong (and yummy) honey and cuban sugar cane rum. This was turning into a very wobbly trek. Fortunately the rest of the trek was more normal, coming across some beautiful countryside, pigs and wooden houses.

Tobacco leaves, enjoying a cigar, making a cigar and leaves drying

That night in the town square we were offered Salsa dancing lessons for $10 and enjoyed half an hour each of private tuition from 2 talented instructors. The next day we hopped in a 1957 Chevrolet Taxi for the return trip back to Havana, staying overnight in our original homestay, before leaving to return home. We really enjoyed our stay in Cuba and the wonderful and helpful people we met despite difficult circumstances. Would love to come back one day.




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