The Travelling Coeliac Environmentalist: August 2025

3 April to 18 April 2023

Now on our own we decided to head to Kegon Falls, one of the top 3 waterfalls in Japan and not far from Tokyo. This meant a train from Tokyo, then a local train to Nikko and then a bus to Lake Chuzenji, 1200m above sea level and reaaallly cold. Lovely location and walking distance to the falls. Kegon Falls was a lovely, long waterfall that fell about 100m. It was different because after viewing from an observation area you then took an elevator down to the bottom of the waterfall. From here you have access to several levels of a viewing platform from which to enjoy nature in all its glory. From that vantage point you could see another small waterfall to the side and myriad tiny waterfalls in the rock adding to the big waterfall and meeting into a gushing river below.

We then went looking for hiking trails to get to the Hangetsu Observatory. Several paths were tried but it was a bit early in the season and a lot of tracks were still impassable. The last one followed around the lake and then cross to a trail. We ran out of time in the end and needed to turn around after hitting significant slippery ice. It was an enjoyable day out in the forest nevertheless and we finished up having walked 27,000 steps.

The next day was a huge travel day to Sapporo with 1 bus and 4 trains and including a train going underwater to cross between the islands of Honshu to Hokkaido. Our first day in Sapporo we visited the port city of Otaru. We wandered the canal area and perused the old buildings. That night we tried out a Yakiniku restaurant where you grill your food yourself on a small grill placed in front of you. The next day was wet, wet, wet. So stayed in most of the day enjoying the hotel facilities, especially the gym and onsen. Late afternoon we went out for dinner and passed the famous TV and Clock Towers.

Caught a train the next morning to head down to Noboribetsu and Jigokudani (hell) Valley. We got in about 12 and rushed our luggage down to the villa we were staying in. This was a full on house set up in the Ryokan style. Beds on the floor etc. We got back to the station just in time to catch the bus to the valley. This bus ends at the Noboribetsu Onsen in a tourist town and a short walk to the sights. Once there it was awesome. A huge valley with cliffs of all colours, belching caverns and sulphuric pools. Following the paths took us close to lookout views of the valley and then wound around through forest until you got to Oyumi Lake, huge, black around the edges, turquoise water and smoking. On the way back was through eerie bare trees, with the sun glowing through light grey clouds with dense light green foliage covering the ground.

Continuing back onto the main island of Honshu our next stop was Matsushima Bay. The only think planned was a 50 minute boat trip and getting there early we got great seats for a lovely trip around the bay looking at the various islands. We followed that with a walk uphill to the Shin Tomiyama Lookout with beautiful gardens, houses and views on the way. We came across an old boulder with a plaque that said it was thousands of years old and the cavern in it had been made by waves when the area had been under the sea. On top of the boulder were trees including a cherry blossom in bloom. The lookout itself was in a lovely wooded area with many trees and cherry blossoms and a large stone tablet that had a lovely poem about Matsushima inscribed upon it. The view itself was vast and amazing. Afterwards we went down to see Godaido of Zuiganji Temple. This temple was on a rock out in the bay and you had to cross 2 bridges onto other rocks to get to it. It was nearly all wood, was weathered and old and showing a lot of character. Finally was Fukuurajima Island with access via a long, red, pedestrian bridge. The island was amazing with fantastic views out to other islands, amazing plant and tree life, lovely paths and hiking trails.

Had a wonderful day with Adrian, Mariko, Liam, Jack, Kaori and Masatake, with a brief encounter with Tomoko at the end. It began with lunch at a Sushi train restaurant grabbing at sushi as they went flying past. After lunch we went to an enormous, only in japan games pavilion. Chock a block full of automated games to test every skill available including basketball, tennis, soccer pitches, baseball and normal arcade games all on several levels. Dinner was at a hotpot restaurant with an endless supply of food items to cook at our tables.

We continued on to Kyoto but as we had been there before we headed more for the outskirts and another recommendation, the Bamboo Forest and the Arashiyama Monkey Park. As we arrived early afternoon we decided to get out and see the monkeys straight away. Perched at the top of Arashiyama Mountain it was a bit of a trek but once at the top it was lush and full of mischievous monkeys with sweeping views of Kyoto. We had to wait until the next day to visit the bamboo forest with trails lined by very high, tightly packed, thick bamboo leading on to random tracks and eventually heading up a steep rocky path for some wider views. After refueling with some gluten free vegan cakes we continued on to the UNESCO listed Sogenchi Pond Gardens. It was a beautifully landscaped and well maintained large garden area with a huge pond and many different varieties of plant life and trees including some still blooming cherry blossoms among shrines and temples. Also from here we’re clear uninterrupted views of the bamboo forest, much better than that seen on the tourist path. Our last day was miserable but since we were in lovely hotel decided to have a relaxing day in.

Lastly we hopped on a 250 kmh train to fast track it back to our final Japan destination, Tokyo where we were gifted a final perfect view of Mount Fuji. We filled our final day with a last minute frenzy of Tokyo sights. First up was the 450m high Skytree Tower with a lift up to 350m followed by another lift up to 445m where you then walk around a spiral gradient to make it to the top. Very expansive views of the sprawling forest of skyscrapers that is Tokyo. Next we walked to the Senso-Ji Temple which started by walking down an ancient looking, bustling street market towards the temples and gardens at the end. After a refuel with their famous gluten free rainbow cake at Shochikuen Cafe we went for a wander through Shiba Park and the Zojo-Ji Temple. That ends our second and a long enjoyable visit to Japan.

Kegon Falls and Chuzenji Lake

Otaru

Sapporo

Noboribetsu and Jigokudani Valley

Matsushima

Hamamatsu

Kyoto

Tokyo

15 March to 2 April 2023

On arrival into Japan we went straight to Nagano to fulfil a wish to visit the Jigokudani Monkey Park and see the fabulous Snow Monkeys. From Nagano the visit required a 50 minute bus trip and a 40 minute walk filled with expansive scenery, tall trees, old wooden buildings and a small continuously erupting geyser. Once we paid to get in and leave our bags we walked up alongside a rushing river, mountains going up all around and noted that there was still snow around. Amongst all of this and just across from a bridge was the hot pool with monkeys lounging around picking bugs off each other to eat, drinking out of the pool, the odd skirmish and general clowning around like little, well, monkeys. They were super friendly, walking among the people at will, sometimes pulling on their clothes and one even tried to take my hiking stick, but in general they, and the humans, behaved themselves. It was amazing and we watched them for about 2 hours before racing down to catch the bus back, needing to power walk as we had only left ourselves about half an hour.

We decided today to go for a walk to Jitsukyama Park. It was about a 6 km trek and we needed the exercise. Unfortunately when we got there we found it was closed. Shame because it was a sunny lovely day. Luckily it was a great walk with high views over the city and mountains, gave us a different view of the town, its buildings and architecture and went right through Zenko-ji Temple, a 1400 year old Buddhist temple in a huge garden setting full of huge manicured trees making it look like a giant’s bonsai garden.

We then headed down to Fukuoka where we will start our cherry blossom tour. Being a few days early we spent our time regaining fitness in an Anytime Fitness gym, exploring the city and chasing up some dedicated gluten free bakeries for tasty treats.

Our home for the next 12 days was one of 3 buses packed full of Australians, 153 of them. First stop in Fukuoka was the shrine at Dazaifu Tenmangu, popular for students praying for exam results. This was a walk through numerous tori gates getting you purified and then over 3 bridges, one each for past, present and future. Finally at the shrine you prayed, having been super purified. The gardens and again the trees were so beautiful and majestic. We then went to a sake brewery where we got to sample sake. The smaller the number the better the quality as it represents how much of the rice grain was used, so a lower number meant more of the husk was removed. They also had a bubbly one and non alcoholic and plum ones. I liked them all but Elizabeth went more for the plum (sweeter) and non alcoholic. Finally we went to the Hakata Machiya Folk Museum to see traditional ways of living. This town is famous for a summer festival that concludes with different districts racing each other with the men carrying huge carved floats. Quite dangerous. They have to run 5 km, and do a sharp turn against a pole where some people get trapped all while wearing underwear like the sumo wear and a top. Looked quite ridiculous but they all take it super seriously and have been doing it for a long time.

Next stop was Nagasaki and its associated Atomic Bomb Museum and Peace Park. This was a cut down version of Hiroshima's, which is still our favorite. Also visited Dejima Port, an artificial island run by the Dutch to facilitate world trade but now reclaimed and made into a museum.

Went to the town of Unzen to go and see the dormant volcano named Unzen Jigoku (Unzen Hell). Not so dormant as the steam from the fumaroles combined with mist and clouds caused nearly 100% visibility loss at times. During clearer times the active fumaroles were easily seen blasting out their sulphuric smells and bubbling pools were everywhere. Very thrilling. On our way down to the port for the ferry ride to Kumamoto we passed a huge park that was covered in cherry blossom trees in full bloom. The driver did a 3 point turn in the bus and took us back, whereupon the whole bus streamed out like kids in a bouncy castle running around taking pictures of the marvelous scenes of cherry blossoms in such a lovely setting.

The next day our first stop was Kumamoto Castle. We went into the castle and went straight to the top on the observation deck for the magnificent views. Lots of cherry blossoms in bloom enhancing most views. We then went to Suizenji Park which was fabulous with a miniature grassy Mt Fuji, the beautiful sculpted trees, wide lakes full of fish and birds and a cherry blossom area that was dropping so many blossoms it looked like snow. Lastly was Mt Aso, one of the largest caldera active volcanoes in the world. We walked to the centre, up a mound to see panoramic views of it.

Out of the frying pan and into the fire our next stop after the volcano was Beppu and a tour of super hot lakes collectively called the Hells of Beppu (Jigokudani Meguri). We visited about 7 of them. They were all different colours depending on the chemical structure of the area. We saw bright red ones, turquoise, blue, orange, green and also grey bubbling mud lakes and a geyser that erupts every 30 to 40 minutes. When we got back Elizabeth and I used an Onsen for the first time. Complicated process. You are meant to go down in your robe and with 2 towels. You select a locker and completely undress, totally nude and place your clothes and big towel in locker. Then you go into the bath area and wash publicly under showers first and then go and sit in the bath. The little towel you can use for modesty on the way and then put on your head while you sit in the bath. Then when you come out you are meant to wash yourself thoroughly, men were shaving, brushing teeth and hair etc, and then dry, dress and go back to your room. I took a few shortcuts. Rinse, clean, in and out and had my proper shower in my room.

From there we went on to Hiroshima and a tour to Myajima Island. First time here in 2012 it was raining and the torii gate in the water was covered due to renovations. Today was a beautiful sunny day and the torii gate was freshly painted and on full display. We went for a big hike along random paths ending up quite high with a gentle waterfall with awesome views on the way. Next stop was the Peace Park and the Atomic Bomb Museum. We rushed through the museum so that we could spend the majority of the time in the peace park. We walked around and saw all of the peace monuments and displays. Went on to our new favourite restaurant for dinner and then went back to the peace park to see it at night. The flame, main monument and the dome were all lit up and looked peaceful in the night light. Still people were coming up to pay their respects. In the end we did 16 km of walking and about 24,000 steps.

We spent the next day travelling to Osaka via Himeji Castle, a white castle which is the biggest in Japan. Had a lovely complex of 9 Japanese gardens as well. Very beautiful with all the white cherry blossoms and some pink ones too. Perfect blue sky which made the white blossoms stand out much more.

For our free day in Osaka we grabbed a train and went to Nara and its deer park. In this huge park are many, many deer. They are not wild anymore and are largely domesticated due to their frequent experiences with tourists. You are encouraged to buy crackers to feed the deer with and the proceeds go to protecting the deer. You hold the cracker up and the deer bow their heads to ask for the cracker. They are very friendly but skittish. As well as the deer, the park itself was huge and lovely with lots of lakes, cherry blossoms, trees and temples. Many wedding groups and coming of age girls were having photos taken in pretty colourful kimonos in the lush surroundings.

Travel day to Shizuoka followed Osaka and included a bullet train. The trip was broken up by visits to a Japanese confectionery factory, if you call a biscuit made of eel confectionery, and a green tea farm. After dinner we went for a wander and visited Sunpu Castle. It's just castle ruins but the trip to it had many lanterns dotted with cherry blossoms and once we went through the castle facade we found ourselves in a huge park with what seemed like a festival going on. Rows and rows of food stalls of all types, lights everywhere and a stage that had quite energetic Japanese dancing going on in exquisite costumes. The energy reminded me of Bollywood dancing but with a samurai twist to it and twirling umbrellas.

The next day was our final long travel day to Tokyo. It was broken up by a picture stop at Mt Fuji, a cruise on Lake Ashi in a pirate ship followed by a gondola ride to Mt Hakone and hot volcanic smoking vents.

Last day on the tour was a free day in Tokyo. We found our way through the insane subway with its maze of multi level tunnels to the Imperial Palace where it was the last day to walk down Inui Street. It was only opened for 1 week for the cherry blossoms and this was its last day. We got in, after going through 3 checkpoints for temperature and sanitising, bags, and lastly for a security scan, and walked down the street. Most cherry blossoms were now past their prime but exploding in bright, lime green leaves. After that we went through the public gardens of the palace. It was a nice end to the tour, especially as we bumped into quite a few tour buddies there.