The Travelling Coeliac Environmentalist: Japan from waterfalls to sulphuric pools

3 April to 18 April 2023

Now on our own we decided to head to Kegon Falls, one of the top 3 waterfalls in Japan and not far from Tokyo. This meant a train from Tokyo, then a local train to Nikko and then a bus to Lake Chuzenji, 1200m above sea level and reaaallly cold. Lovely location and walking distance to the falls. Kegon Falls was a lovely, long waterfall that fell about 100m. It was different because after viewing from an observation area you then took an elevator down to the bottom of the waterfall. From here you have access to several levels of a viewing platform from which to enjoy nature in all its glory. From that vantage point you could see another small waterfall to the side and myriad tiny waterfalls in the rock adding to the big waterfall and meeting into a gushing river below.

We then went looking for hiking trails to get to the Hangetsu Observatory. Several paths were tried but it was a bit early in the season and a lot of tracks were still impassable. The last one followed around the lake and then cross to a trail. We ran out of time in the end and needed to turn around after hitting significant slippery ice. It was an enjoyable day out in the forest nevertheless and we finished up having walked 27,000 steps.

The next day was a huge travel day to Sapporo with 1 bus and 4 trains and including a train going underwater to cross between the islands of Honshu to Hokkaido. Our first day in Sapporo we visited the port city of Otaru. We wandered the canal area and perused the old buildings. That night we tried out a Yakiniku restaurant where you grill your food yourself on a small grill placed in front of you. The next day was wet, wet, wet. So stayed in most of the day enjoying the hotel facilities, especially the gym and onsen. Late afternoon we went out for dinner and passed the famous TV and Clock Towers.

Caught a train the next morning to head down to Noboribetsu and Jigokudani (hell) Valley. We got in about 12 and rushed our luggage down to the villa we were staying in. This was a full on house set up in the Ryokan style. Beds on the floor etc. We got back to the station just in time to catch the bus to the valley. This bus ends at the Noboribetsu Onsen in a tourist town and a short walk to the sights. Once there it was awesome. A huge valley with cliffs of all colours, belching caverns and sulphuric pools. Following the paths took us close to lookout views of the valley and then wound around through forest until you got to Oyumi Lake, huge, black around the edges, turquoise water and smoking. On the way back was through eerie bare trees, with the sun glowing through light grey clouds with dense light green foliage covering the ground.

Continuing back onto the main island of Honshu our next stop was Matsushima Bay. The only think planned was a 50 minute boat trip and getting there early we got great seats for a lovely trip around the bay looking at the various islands. We followed that with a walk uphill to the Shin Tomiyama Lookout with beautiful gardens, houses and views on the way. We came across an old boulder with a plaque that said it was thousands of years old and the cavern in it had been made by waves when the area had been under the sea. On top of the boulder were trees including a cherry blossom in bloom. The lookout itself was in a lovely wooded area with many trees and cherry blossoms and a large stone tablet that had a lovely poem about Matsushima inscribed upon it. The view itself was vast and amazing. Afterwards we went down to see Godaido of Zuiganji Temple. This temple was on a rock out in the bay and you had to cross 2 bridges onto other rocks to get to it. It was nearly all wood, was weathered and old and showing a lot of character. Finally was Fukuurajima Island with access via a long, red, pedestrian bridge. The island was amazing with fantastic views out to other islands, amazing plant and tree life, lovely paths and hiking trails.

Had a wonderful day with Adrian, Mariko, Liam, Jack, Kaori and Masatake, with a brief encounter with Tomoko at the end. It began with lunch at a Sushi train restaurant grabbing at sushi as they went flying past. After lunch we went to an enormous, only in japan games pavilion. Chock a block full of automated games to test every skill available including basketball, tennis, soccer pitches, baseball and normal arcade games all on several levels. Dinner was at a hotpot restaurant with an endless supply of food items to cook at our tables.

We continued on to Kyoto but as we had been there before we headed more for the outskirts and another recommendation, the Bamboo Forest and the Arashiyama Monkey Park. As we arrived early afternoon we decided to get out and see the monkeys straight away. Perched at the top of Arashiyama Mountain it was a bit of a trek but once at the top it was lush and full of mischievous monkeys with sweeping views of Kyoto. We had to wait until the next day to visit the bamboo forest with trails lined by very high, tightly packed, thick bamboo leading on to random tracks and eventually heading up a steep rocky path for some wider views. After refueling with some gluten free vegan cakes we continued on to the UNESCO listed Sogenchi Pond Gardens. It was a beautifully landscaped and well maintained large garden area with a huge pond and many different varieties of plant life and trees including some still blooming cherry blossoms among shrines and temples. Also from here we’re clear uninterrupted views of the bamboo forest, much better than that seen on the tourist path. Our last day was miserable but since we were in lovely hotel decided to have a relaxing day in.

Lastly we hopped on a 250 kmh train to fast track it back to our final Japan destination, Tokyo where we were gifted a final perfect view of Mount Fuji. We filled our final day with a last minute frenzy of Tokyo sights. First up was the 450m high Skytree Tower with a lift up to 350m followed by another lift up to 445m where you then walk around a spiral gradient to make it to the top. Very expansive views of the sprawling forest of skyscrapers that is Tokyo. Next we walked to the Senso-Ji Temple which started by walking down an ancient looking, bustling street market towards the temples and gardens at the end. After a refuel with their famous gluten free rainbow cake at Shochikuen Cafe we went for a wander through Shiba Park and the Zojo-Ji Temple. That ends our second and a long enjoyable visit to Japan.