Fiji Adventures

 27 May to 14 June 2023

Our final stop before going home was Fiji. We landed here without a plan and so after some investigations we spent a day at Denarau Port arranging some island hopping. We investigated the big time operators first to get ideas and prices and then found the local operators area. We arranged a plan here that was less than half of the main operators so if you are willing to take a chance there are some good deals to be had. A bit more risky though. All in all though as you will see below our instincts were good on this occasion.

As we had a couple of days before the island hopping we spent the next day at the Sleeping Giant Botanical Garden. No buses go there so we took a taxi. Lovely natural jungle garden. Not very big so it was quick to get around except it did have a trek up to a lookout which had wonderful views. We then walked the dirt road back to the main road and down to a Sunny Pizza that had great gluten free pizzas. A bus got us back to our hotel.

Next on the agenda was our big hike of Mt Batilamu. We were picked up by transport at 7 and taken to the village at Abaca. We were introduced to Steve, a local of the village, who was to be our guide. This was a gruelling trek through the jungle, over several streams, up steep and muddy slopes and along narrow ledges with sheer drops to the side with Steve slashing growth left and right with his machete. Steve was perfect as a guide, lending a helping hand when necessary, providing interesting commentary during the trek, moving at our pace and fashioning, using his machete, several hiking sticks for both of us and guiding us on how to use them. I doubt I would have made it without his help, probably stumbling over an edge somewhere. We made it to the top on a surprisingly small narrow ledge to tremendous wide open views to the ocean and beyond with a perfect view of the giant mango tree below.

Afterwards, back down, after a 5 hour round trip, his wife made us lunch in their home, basically a shack. The lunch had rice, cucumber, cassava root, a spinach and onion salad, a tarot stew, mango and pikelet and noodle dishes. We ate as much as we could and they kept trying to get us to eat more. They would not eat with us (probably custom), 

After that grueling hike it was time to start our island hopping adventure. The boat you catch is like a bus that stops at the various islands letting off people that are going to that island and picking up people going to the mainland or another island. Quite ingenious really. First Island, Wayalailai at Wayalailai Ecohaven Resort. A mid level facility. They only had 7 guests, including us, so we got upgraded to our own bathroom instead of a shared one. As is typical it included all meals and soon after we arrived we chatted with an met the other guests over lunch. In the afternoon we explored around the island and did some swimming. We were serenaded at dinner by 3 guys on guitars that then had us singing a funny song that had us pretending to be animals. That was followed by an activity with palm leaves and drinking kava.

The next morning we decided to climb to the highest summit on the island. Even though a guide was recommended nobody wanted a guide, So, in the tradition of it being better to ask for forgiveness rather than permission, we all went on our own anyway. It was a bit more challenging than we expected, but we got to the peak (one rock lower actually but it looked too dangerous), with the last half hour scrambling over rocks. We kept catching up to young men from the village taking 20 L jugs of gasoline up to the Vodafone tower. So plenty of people knew we were out and could sound the alarm if we did not return. Also I used the Alltrails app to track my journey. The afternoon was spent snorkeling and walking the beach to a large rock coming out of the ocean.

In the morning we awoke to a beautiful day so we took the Kayak out to try to find the reef. e were surprised to not only find the reef but also for it to be so clear and viewable from the Kayak. Just by looking down we could see coral and fish of orange, and turquoise and pinks, and blues and black and white striped in an endless kaleidoscope of shapes, colours and sizes. The coral came in massive flat to branch tree like structures. Whenever we would float in too close to shore and shallow water we would paddle back out and drift again, trying to leave the sea as calm as possible. In the afternoon we went the other way but as the tide had come in did not see as much so went swimming. With a bigger crowd we were treated to traditional dancing and singing after dinner. We shared a broken coconut with some new friends before turning in for our last night on the island.

The next day it was time to move on to the next island. We got up to watch the sunrise. Very cloudy with small openings that allowed the sun to shine across and produce bright orange highlights on a spread of clouds. While waiting for the boat they sung us their farewell song in traditional Fiji. After hugs and handshakes we made our way to the small boat to take us to the Catamaran to go to Nacula. After settling in we watched a cooking demonstration of marinaded raw fish and vegetables, spices, vinegar and coconut milk (called coconda). It tasted really nice, a bit like ceviche. We went kayaking and swimming in the afternoon and found ourselves surrounded by black and white striped fish. Finally after dinner we were treated to a bonfire on the beach.

We woke up to a very wet, very windy miserable day. The day we had booked to go to the Sawa-I-Lau Limestone Caves. These caves were used in the movie Blue Lagoon and known locally as the resting place for the Fijian god Uluitini. The whole trip in a small boat took half an hour, but felt much longer as we were buffeted by strong winds and soaked through our rain jackets by piercing rain. Finally we arrived at the island and disembarked, shedding ourselves of our sodden jackets. We went up some stairs and then down some stairs to reach the first cave. I had my phone in a ‘waterproof’ jacket from the Philippines, but within minutes of going in the water the jacket was fall of water and my phone was swimming in it. I quickly handed it to one of the guides who emptied it and put it somewhere safe. 

The first cave was fabulous, high sides to an open ceiling where you could see greenery and sky shining its light back down on us and illuminating the ragged rocky sides of the cave. Then came the exciting part, swimming underground to get to the next cave. The guides would be at both sides, with the far one having a torch, giving you a light to swim towards. He pushes your head under and you swim towards the light, as you get to the other side the other guide would steer your head away from rocks and lets you surface in clear water. Quite an experience. The cave is pitch black. Once everyone is through they take us around the cave with torches and show us the different formations and alcoves and discuss the cave. Really nice. Once back into the main cave we swam around and one of the guides found some eels. We looked under the water following the beam of his torch as he highlighted several eels for us to view. The trip back was not as wet, but quite long as they stopped for one of the crew to get fresh clothes from the village. 

The afternoon was dry, but still windy. After afternoon tea we went to take the hike to the summit. Fantastic views were had from several locations seeing across and looking down to the other islands. I did not make it to the very top as it got too steep so did not see the back of the island, but Elizabeth was able to make it. We made one wrong turn on the way down but quickly retraced and found the right track, making it down just before dark and catching the last of the fabulous sunset. As the sunset disappeared over the horizon we noticed a group sitting cross legged just right of us. We wandered over and found them doing a Kava ceremony. We joined in just on time to get one drink each. This was followed by a song and dance demonstration of traditional Fiji culture and then we were roped in to do the last couple of dances with them. The phone? It never worked again. I lost ALL of my Fiji photos up to that point so you will notice below a much smaller spattering of photos. Luckily I had backed up everything before then. 

Our final day we took the opportunity after breakfast to snorkel before needing to pack up and checkout. This gave us about an hour of glorious snorkeling the reef just in front of the hotel. Time was perfect with low tide being around 12, so still deep enough to float over the reef but close enough, and getting closer, to see the fish and coral super close up. The fish were plentiful with a wide variety of sizes and colours and we even saw a deep blue starfish. This is the best snorkeling for fish that we have had, so a really enjoyable morning. Then lunch and catch the catamaran to return to the mainland.

Once back on the mainland we booked a trip to the Sabeto Hot Spring and Mud Pool with massage. Once there and settled in we were taken by one of the owners to where numerous buckets of mud were sitting on the ground and directed to cover ourselves. We proceeded to cover ourselves in mud with our own hands and then let wander about until the mud dried. Once dry we were taken to an initial pool of mud for a dip to rinse off. Not very successful as it was nearly as muddy as us, and then taken to a second pool that was nearly as muddy for a second rinse. Then there was a third pool that was nearly clear for a penultimate rinse before moving to a fourth pool that was the hottest and cleanest to soak in. After awhile we were directed to dry off and sent to a room with the massage therapists for our one hour Fijian massage. She was really good and thorough. After that we decided on doing the whole mud process again 

On the move again we caught a bus to the Crows Nest Resort on the Coral Coast. In the morning we caught local buses to the Sand Dunes National Park. I left my hiking stick on the second bus. At the were many tracks to choose from. The ranger suggested the longest one, a 2 hour trek. I found a trusty long stick and we set off. The track was not all sand dunes, in fact it was mostly through lush bush, forests and constantly changing ecosystems and scenery. Quite good actually. The sand dunes then presented particular challenges and views of their own. We had one misstep. The guy said you turn off the beach and head in at the end of the row of tepees. We could only see one tepee so turned then but it was early and finished at a dead end. We went back to the beach and walked along where we did find more. With our eyesight and the fact they were inland a bit we could not see them initially. We caught the bus back to town. We asked the bus drivers if there was a lost and found and explained our situation with the hiking stick. A nice lady pressured the bus guys to call the bus driver who drove us to the dunes. He did indeed still have my stick and was apparently at a gas station. He came back and gave me my stick. 

Next we hopped onto the big Pacific bus and made our way to Suva, just for a day trip. Also we had high hopes for a gluten free cafe I heard of from the gluten free Fiji Facebook page. 3 hour bus trip saw us arrive about 11:30. We started walking, looking for colonial buildings. We only found a couple of vaguely colonial buildings including the old Parliament House, but some other more modern architecture was good and we did find really nice and very old gardens in Albert Park. Some really big old trees with huge trunks and wide spreading branches. We had a good wander around. From there we went to the Rhubarb Cafe. This is a mainly gluten free cafe. We shared a vegetarian lasagne and an apple crumble and lemon cheesecake. We bought a rhubarb slice and a passion fruit and lemon slice to take home for the next day as well. We then took the long way back to the bus station passing the colonial memorial hospital and some very greenery covered buildings. 

Our final day in Fiji, and of our trip, was spent relaxing around the resort, swimming in the pool and wandering down the beach.

Nacula

Sabeto Hot Spring and Mud Pool

Sand Dunes National Park

Suva

Crows Nest Resort on the Coral Coast

Singapore puts on a show

22 May to 24 May 2023

After Sth Korea we were headed to Fiji but due to plane schedules making it a long trip we broke it up by having a few days in Singapore. Forecast was for rain when we arrived but instead our first day was lovely, bright, very hot and humid. Our initial plan was to go up the Skypark Observation Deck. But nice people told us we could do that and several other activities free if we join their club and show our passports. We did not have the passports so switched to tomorrow.

We switched to Gardens by the Bay. Lovely gardens to stroll around on a warm day and a few new things. They had this long line of life size sculptures of a huge amount of animals that was brilliant. All done by a couple trying to bring awareness to animals facing extinction.

Also they had a new exhibition called Floral Fantasy. This was a mixture of live, dried and pretend plants that was breathtaking in its art and beauty. The ticket also included a 4D movie where you saw the gardens of the bay through the eyes of a flying dragon fly. Really amazing with splashing water, gusts of wind and 4D effects that came right out of the screen. Some poetic license was taken with a dragon and the big baby sculpture coming to life. 

After dinner we went back to the garden to see the Skytree show again. unfortunately no Star Wars theme this time but Elizabeth was happy with the dance of the lights done to Opera. On our way back we went and looked at the Merlion at night.

Next morning and armed with our passports we headed to the Marina, completing our memberships and getting cards each. First stop Skypark Observation Deck. The views from here were some of the best in the world for a city observation tower. Normally you just get buildings and pollution, but Singapore is really interesting with lots to look at from every side. Clean skyline with views down to Gardens of the Bay, then you have the river and skyscrapers, ocean full of ships, giant Ferris wheel, Parliament House, theatre buildings, art and science museum and much more.

Our next freebie was a Sampan ride through a makeshift canal in the shopping complex. The following freebie was the Digital Light Canvas. This was a large floor area under fibre lights with the concept being you paint with crayon an animal and it gets digitised and comes alive on the floor, moving around and animated. I did a flower and Elizabeth did a pretty groovy looking lizard.

After dinner we headed to the Merlion to see the light and fountain show back at the Marina called Spectra. We found with the noise of the Merlion and the public around us we could not hear the music. So we stayed for the 9pm show and found a better possy that was actually quieter and closer. Thoroughly enjoyed the show.

On our last day we headed to the art and science museum. We were delighted to find out that our membership card got us 2 for 1 tickets to a light show at the museum. This was a series of displays that melded science and art together with most of them interactive.

Singapore

Gardens By The Bay

Skypark

Surprising South Korea

 21 April to 20 May 2023

After Japan we took our first trip to South Korea. We expected to only be here about a week but were surprised at how much there was to see and do. In the end we were here a month. First up is the mandatory tour to the DMZ. Korea was chopped in half with the communist side (North) and the democracy side (South). Lots of symbolism to see with monuments hoping for peace and the putting the 2 halves back together again as well as remnants from the war when the North tried to reunite them by force, and nearly succeeded. At Dora station they had powerful binoculars for spying on the other half and several tunnels you could explore where the North tried to tunnel through to invade secretly. They always get found out. The tour guide tried to give us a snapshot of how the other half live, long story short, not very well.

Next day activity was Namsan Mountain and N Seoul Tower. We walked from our hotel all the way to the tower. It was a steep path with many steps but glorious city views from many stops and viewpoints along the way. Nice greenery and plants on the mountain as well. We got to the top and enjoyed the views and had lunch. Afterwards we set off down the other side of the mountain to a botanical garden and had a long wander checking out the many plants, ponds and even saw a couple of chipmunks playing. After dinner at a gluten free restaurant we walked around the mountain and home.

The next day was a visit to Gyeongbokgung Palace. It had extensive grounds with lots of trees and buildings but along simple and similar lines. Afterwards we headed to Jongmyo Shrine, a nice enclosed garden area where previous royalty are entombed and revered with spirit houses.

After Seoul and needing some nature we headed east to Seoraksan National Park, staying in a hotel nearby with views from the window of magnificent mountains. After visiting the National Park office for maps and advice we decided to hike to Biseondae Rock. Beautiful views and mostly good trails we finished at the sign to Geumganggul Cave, rated éxpert' on the map. We decided to give it a go. The trail was hard, really steep and finished with a large amount of steps. We almost missed it as the steps stop off at views and we thought that was it. Then Elizabeth saw the cave so we headed up. Well worth the effort, amazing place and amazing views. The cave was done up like a temple with spiritual artefacts inside. Does this make us experts now?

We followed that with another big mountain hiking day. We decided to do the waterfalls trail. Three waterfalls here, Yukdam Falls, Biryong Falls and then to a lookout spot where you can see Towangseong Falls. The first two were fairly easy but then the steps kicked in, and steps and steps. Ouch. Finally when we got to the top the waterfall was more a trickle than a gusher. The views though were magnificent and while we were resting and eating a couple of. rascal squirrels came out to play. They were really funny and not scared of us, running around and playing with each other. We went to Sokcho that night for dinner and to buy follow on bus tickets. The following day was wet and wild so we had a lovely rest day regaining our hiking legs.

With fresh legs we decided to tackle the big one, Ulsanbawi Rock, A huge single granite rock of 6 peaks. Half way up you get to Heundeulbawi Rock. There were brilliant views from here and also had some ancient Buddhist temples with recorded meditation voice ringing out among the rock, plenty of colour, little buddhas and other interesting artefacts. After a punishing amount of stairs we finally reached the top that had multiple stairs to 3 different viewpoints. Of course we had to try them all. The far side you could see all the way to the ocean, the city and other little villages and fancy golfing resorts.

Next stop was the city of Gyeongju-si, home of the Silla dynasty (57BCE to 676). It had Buddhist leanings and would bury their nobility in wooden chamber tombs, covered by stone mounds. They then got covered by soil, and grass grown over them. Therefore in reality this whole city is one giant cemetery which is celebrated. Weird but true. We wandered around the free mounds, lakes, hills and viewpoints and also saw Cheomseongdae, an ancient tower that is thought to be an early observatory. The afternoon we spent at the Daereungwon Tomb Complex, a closed park that cost to see fancier mounds within a nice park complex, that allowed entry into one of the tombs to see the relics.

The next morning was a visit to Golgulsa Temple. The temple was a 40 minute bus ride away plus a half hour walk. Not so much a single temple but an ancient Buddhist grotto with a rocky outcrop consisting of many small natural caves each with little buddhas and carvings in them leading up through a system of steep stairs to the ancient Buddha at the top, over 1,000 years old. Very well preserved considering and has a quality about it that makes it feel very special. Finally that night we wandered out to see the lights on all the little tomb mounds littered around the city that we looked at the other day.

The following day was a travel day to Busan, but as weather was going bad we decided to head straight out when we arrived. We went to do the Songdo Cable car ride with a glass bottom. Was a lovely long trip over the ocean and looking down was interesting. The park on the other side had a wealth of activities, sculptures and hikes to choose from. You could walk across to a tiny island over a suspension bridge for an extra fee. The park had artworks, playgrounds and dinosaur animatronics called Amnam Park.

Haedong Yonggungsa Temple was our first stop the next day as it was still fine. Constructed in the 14th century on the side of a cliff it is a fairly impressive set of structures. We had a fairly extensive wander around checking out the various Buddhas and temples and people praying etc. They had a sign making the bold claim that it was the most beautiful temple in Korea. After that and after dinner we headed off to the Gamcheon Culture Village. This is a labyrinth like maze of streets and stairs built on the side of a steep mountain slope filled with brightly coloured houses and numerous murals and artwork on the sides and front of the houses. Nice for an afternoon and evening walk to enjoy the colourful views of the layered houses and cute little nooks and crannies of photo stops and sculptures.

As the weather turned bad we headed west to tackle the second highest mountain in Sth Korea, Jirisan, and its highest point Cheonwangbong Peak. After spending a day researching the peak we woke up early to get to the trail so as to complete it in one day. Our host had made us these rice and vegetable patties covered by tofu for lunch and 6 eggs. We left 2 eggs in the room for next days brekkie.

It was a punishing trail, mostly uneven rocks over steep trails. Punishing on the knees and concentration. We got to the top just before 2, having stopped for lunch at the rotary shelter like everybody else. I also spent too much time at Ssanggyesa temple because I took the wrong track, not realising it was to the temple only. About 20 minutes. Just after 2 we did the cross, getting to the Jangteomok shelter just before 4, the cutoff time before you are not supposed to go down anymore but stay at the shelter. We left a bit late, about 4:15 due to toilet and water breaks. We still thought we had plenty of time because at 3 hours down would be 7:15, just before dark. The trail down was fairly treacherous, with the trail teetering out at parts and climbing down required etc. We passed and then they passed us a group of 3 guys with one having similar knee problems to myself and taking things carefully. Water from the recent rains was crossing the path making some stretches slippery and wet. Nevertheless we kept up a persistent pace with few stops. It started getting later and later with signs and all trails revealing we still had awhile to go, which did not make sense if it was 3 hours long. It passed 7 and then 7:30 with lots still to go and then getting dark. I eventually used the torch on my phone to light the way and we caught up to 2 of the previous group having difficulty in the dark. I used my torch to try to help him and to shine enough light backwards to help Elizabeth. I stumbled a few times. At around 8:15 the other guy came back with a torch and a phone light and at about that time Elizabeth took a tumble with me and my stick breaking her fall. The guy gave her his phone so she had a light of her own and we all continued down, making it to the bottom at about 8:30. Our host who was going to pick us up was worried about us because I could not contact him due to internet issues. He eventually picked us up. Checking the map later we realised they had given us the wrong time for the last leg, with the map saying 4 hours and not 3. It would have been much faster to go straight down from Cheonwangbong but the longer path followed a stream down and with the recent rains it was gushing with plentiful waterfalls and lovely scenery.

After recovering from back in Busan we caught a plane down to Jeju Island. The plan for the first day was to check out all the sights South of the Island. This encompassed 2 waterfalls and a big rock. So we hopped on a bus to the first waterfall, Jeongbang Waterfall. This waterfall drains into the ocean and has quite a unique view. At the bottom of a flight of stairs with several lookout spots, you arrive at a rocky beach, from where you can view the waterfall in all its glory. Lots of people bravely balancing on the rocks trying to find a better vantage point. We did our own fair share of balancing while I looked for the perfect photo. We then checked the map and decided that the next waterfall was walking distance. The Cheonjiyeon Waterfall was located at the end of a long path through a luscious garden/forest area along a winding river. Quite a beautiful waterfall in a lovely setting, about the same height as the first one but wider. As we exited the park we could see a unique looking pedestrian bridge so we decided to go and have a look. It ended up being a bridge called the Saeseom Island Saeyeongyo Bridge, a cable bridge with a sail shaped tower that took you across to Saeseom Island. The island was a park and garden but we did not have enough time to explore because we had one more stop on out list of attractions and we were running out of day. We again decided to walk. Our last stop was Oedolgae rock. This was a large rock sticking up out of the ocean like James Bond rock in Phuket, Thailand. If anything, this rock was probably more impressive, if not at least as impressive. Lovely area around it. Time to catch a bus finally because the hour trip to the other side of the island is not really walkable.

16 May 2023, Elizabeth’s birthday, and our original plan was to hike up the big one, Mt Hallasan. But we missed the 10am bus to the national park by 3 minutes. We caught a bus east, which then proceeded to break down on us. We then waited for another bus and caught that to where we needed to change buses to the Manjanggul Cave. Got off and then realised due to the breakdown we missed the connecting bus. With an hour and a half until the next one we revised our plans again. We then caught a bus to Seongsan Ilchulbong. This is a peak on the coast with a cone formed by volcanic eruptions. There was a long trail of stairs to the peak where you got views of the town and ocean below and the crater within. We then high tailed it down because we still wanted to make it to the cave. We caught a bus getting there with an hour to spare before it closed. Manjanggul Cave is a lava tube 9km long, making it the 12th largest in the world, created by flowing lava and having the biggest lava column in the world. This cave was really cool, literally and figuratively, walking along a floor created by flowing lava.

Finally we made our way to a Mexican restaurant for dinner. Birthday 62, done and dusted.

Finally the day for the big day hike on Mt Hallasan, Sth Korea's biggest mountain. After 2 days of hiking around the sights south and east, I was not sure I had the legs for this hike. The Yeongsil trail was rated as a moderate to hard trail of around 5 to 7 hours long depending on where you start. We had a false start taking a trail we thought was going to the trailhead but instead took us to a temple. Aarrggh the bane of my existence is all of these friggin temples. Retracing our steps back to the car park we realised we were going to run out of time if we lost another 45 minutes getting to the trailhead. So we took a taxi for $10, not bothering to bargain because we were in a hurry. This was very lucky because by the time we started it was only 20 minutes until the official cut off time for starting the trail.

Finally we were off and hiking. The trail starts challenging with lots of stairs through lush forest opening up as we got higher to impressive views. The sky started closing in and looked threatening as we got higher, though the path got easier. It opened to vast plains and vistas, then closed in again, then became rocky and very, very windy. I assume this is a natural wind tunnel as the track was well serviced here with ropes and handrails. Elizabeth was regretting a decision to not bring her jacket but persevering with the hike like the trooper she is. We finally reached the end of the trail at a shelter that had a medical bay, toilets and rest area. We stopped to eat our lunch of nuts, chips and banana and discussed which way to go down, as there was an alternative track. We chose the alternative Eorimok trail as we like variety. This trail was longer but we were hoping more sheltered. The trail was more sheltered but harder as it was mostly a rock track. Most of the track was in fairly dense forest and so was green, calm and relaxing, until vehicles started coming down along a monorail that ran down beside the track bringing down items from the shelter. We ended the day breaking a record by walking 20.1 km and 30,480 steps.

The next two days were wet so we stayed mostly in, just going out for a wander and gluten free cake supplies. On the second day we went to a show called "Cookin Nanta". This was essentially a comedy done in mime about some very accident prone chefs preparing for a banquet. 

Our last day in Sth Korea ended up being fine so we checked the map for anything we had not seen and found the Cheonjaeyeon Waterfall. This turned out to be much more than expected. It was a total of 3 waterfalls and a bridge with nymphs adorned on it over to a simple temple/pagoda with lovely markings and large garden areas. The first waterfall was fairly dry with a blue pool in front of it but had rock formations in long geometric structures that looked quite unique. The second waterfall was broad and bouncing off rocks near the top before tumbling to the bottom. The third waterfall was narrow and secluded but gushing out the top. Afterwards we wandered over the bridge to the temple and different views and enjoyed the lovely colours and paintings adorning the temple’s roof and sides.

Seoul Sth korea

DMZ

Namsan Mounain

Gyeongbokgung Palace

Jongmyo Shrine

 Seoraksan National Park

Sokcho

Ulsanbawi, Seoraksan National Park

Gyeongju-si

Golgulsa Temple

Busan and Songdo Cable Car

Haedong Yonggungsa Temple

Gamcheon Culture Village

Jirisan & Cheonwangbong

Jeju 

Jeongbang Waterfall

Cheonjiyeon Waterfall

Oedolgae Rock

Seongsan Ilchulbong

Manjanggul Cave

Mt Hallasan

Jeju

Cheonjaeyeon Waterfall

Japan from waterfalls to sulphuric pools

3 April to 18 April 2023

Now on our own we decided to head to Kegon Falls, one of the top 3 waterfalls in Japan and not far from Tokyo. This meant a train from Tokyo, then a local train to Nikko and then a bus to Lake Chuzenji, 1200m above sea level and reaaallly cold. Lovely location and walking distance to the falls. Kegon Falls was a lovely, long waterfall that fell about 100m. It was different because after viewing from an observation area you then took an elevator down to the bottom of the waterfall. From here you have access to several levels of a viewing platform from which to enjoy nature in all its glory. From that vantage point you could see another small waterfall to the side and myriad tiny waterfalls in the rock adding to the big waterfall and meeting into a gushing river below. 

We then went looking for hiking trails to get to the Hangetsu Observatory. Several paths were tried but it was a bit early in the season and a lot of tracks were still impassable. The last one followed around the lake and then cross to a trail. We ran out of time in the end and needed to turn around after hitting significant slippery ice. It was an enjoyable day out in the forest nevertheless and we finished up having walked 27,000 steps.

The next day was a huge travel day to Sapporo with 1 bus and 4 trains and including a train going underwater to cross between the islands of Honshu to Hokkaido. Our first day in Sapporo we visited the port city of Otaru. We wandered the canal area and perused the old buildings. That night we tried out a Yakiniku restaurant where you grill your food yourself on a small grill placed in front of you. The next day was wet, wet, wet. So stayed in most of the day enjoying the hotel facilities, especially the gym and onsen. Late afternoon we went out for dinner and passed the famous TV and Clock Towers.

Caught a train the next morning to head down to Noboribetsu and Jigokudani (hell) Valley. We got in about 12 and rushed our luggage down to the villa we were staying in. This was a full on house set up in the Ryokan style. Beds on the floor etc. We got back to the station just in time to catch the bus to the valley. This bus ends at the Noboribetsu Onsen in a tourist town and a short walk to the sights. Once there it was awesome. A huge valley with cliffs of all colours, belching caverns and sulphuric pools. Following the paths took us close to lookout views of the valley and then wound around through forest until you got to Oyumi Lake, huge, black around the edges, turquoise water and smoking. On the way back was through eerie bare trees, with the sun glowing through light grey clouds with dense light green foliage covering the ground.

Continuing back onto the main island of Honshu our next stop was Matsushima Bay. The only think planned was a 50 minute boat trip and getting there early we got great seats for a lovely trip around the bay looking at the various islands. We followed that with a walk uphill to the Shin Tomiyama Lookout  with beautiful gardens, houses and views on the way. We came across an old boulder with a plaque that said it was thousands of years old and the cavern in it had been made by waves when the area had been under the sea. On top of the boulder were trees including a cherry blossom in bloom. The lookout itself was in a lovely wooded area with many trees and cherry blossoms and a large stone tablet that had a lovely poem about Matsushima inscribed upon it. The view itself was vast and amazing. Afterwards we went down to see Godaido of Zuiganji Temple. This temple was on a rock out in the bay and you had to cross 2 bridges onto other rocks to get to it. It was nearly all wood, was weathered and old and showing a lot of character. Finally was Fukuurajima Island with access via a long, red, pedestrian bridge. The island was amazing with fantastic views out to other islands, amazing plant and tree life, lovely paths and hiking trails.

Had a wonderful day with Adrian, Mariko, Liam, Jack, Kaori and Masatake, with a brief encounter with Tomoko at the end. It began with lunch at a Sushi train restaurant grabbing at sushi as they went flying past. After lunch we went to an enormous, only in japan games pavilion. Chock a block full of automated games to test every skill available including basketball, tennis, soccer pitches, baseball and normal arcade games all on several levels. Dinner was at a hotpot restaurant with an endless supply of food items to cook at our tables.   

We continued on to Kyoto but as we had been there before we headed more for the outskirts and another recommendation, the Bamboo Forest and the Arashiyama Monkey Park. As we arrived early afternoon we decided to get out and see the monkeys straight away. Perched at the top of Arashiyama Mountain it was a bit of a trek but once at the top it was lush and full of mischievous monkeys with sweeping views of Kyoto. We had to wait until the next day to visit the bamboo forest with trails lined by very high, tightly packed, thick bamboo leading on to random tracks and eventually heading up a steep rocky path for some wider views. After refueling with some gluten free vegan cakes we continued on to the UNESCO listed Sogenchi Pond Gardens. It was a beautifully landscaped and well maintained large garden area with a huge pond and many different varieties of plant life and trees including some still blooming cherry blossoms among shrines and temples. Also from here we’re clear uninterrupted views of the bamboo forest, much better than that seen on the tourist path. Our last day was miserable but since we were in lovely hotel decided to have a relaxing day in.

Lastly we hopped on a 250 kmh train to fast track it back to our final Japan destination, Tokyo where we were gifted a final perfect view of Mount Fuji. We filled our final day with a last minute frenzy of Tokyo sights. First up was the 450m high Skytree Tower with a lift up to 350m followed by another lift up to 445m where you then walk around a spiral gradient to make it to the top. Very expansive views of the sprawling forest of skyscrapers that is Tokyo. Next we walked to the Senso-Ji Temple which started by walking down an ancient looking, bustling street market towards the temples and gardens at the end. After a refuel with their famous gluten free rainbow cake at Shochikuen Cafe we went for a wander through Shiba Park and the Zojo-Ji Temple. That ends our second and a long enjoyable visit to Japan.

Kegon Falls and Chuzenji Lake

Otaru

Sapporo

Noboribetsu and Jigokudani Valley

Matsushima

Hamamatsu

Kyoto

Tokyo