Old Chevrolets and a Cuban Cigar

 3rd April to 6th April 2018 - Vinales

Two and a half hours west from Havana we arrived at Vinales, a fabulous little town. Staying at another Homestay we were well spoiled by Ana and Dairon. The rooms were really cheap but meals are extra and can be relatively expensive. To compensate the meals were HUGE and way more than we can eat, though we had a good go.

Our homestay and a big breakfast on the balcony

The centre of town was an easy walking distance and had a huge town square area with a community centre that was full of dancing, music and art. This was buzzing with people, not least because it was about the only place you could get internet reception with cards that you brought for $2. This was a great place for people watching and random dancing when the music was right.

The cute little town of Vinales

The next day we arranged a taxi to see the sights. You paid a set fare and they stayed with you all day. First stop was a huge mural on the rock face of a hill that was painted by a local artist and featured the area's prehistoric origins with dinosaurs, people and snakes taking centre stage. Their was also a trail leading up to the foliage along the top which we followed until we ran out of trail. We did get a nice view looking back from right above the mural.

Working on the mural, the mural itself, the view from the top

Next stop was the Santo Tomas cave, the second biggest cave in Central America. What was unique was that unlike the fairly sanitised large caves we normally visit with fancy lights and trails, this one was as is. No fancy lights, no fancy steps and trails or sounds, it was just the cave. Donning hard hats with torches we descended into the bat filled cave. This gave it a completely different feel and it felt more like an eerie adventure. You could see the true colours and contours of the different interiors and rock formations and at one stage we were asked to turn all our lights off and were plunged into total darkness. At another time he played music on a rock formation that was amplified in the unique acoustics of the cave. This was a great experience.

The next day we went for a guided 3 hour walk through the countryside with guide Miguel. It included a tour of a tobacco farm where we were able to sample a genuine Cuban cigar. Much smoother and more enjoyable than expected and I ended up wishing I had smoked a full one, rather than sharing. We washed that down with a glass of Mojitos sweetened with honey instead of the usual sugar. We continued on the walk and soon came across a coffee plantation, a perfect fit after the Mojitos. Instead of coffee though we were treated to a very strong (and yummy) honey and cuban sugar cane rum. This was turning into a very wobbly trek. Fortunately the rest of the trek was more normal, coming across some beautiful countryside, pigs and wooden houses.

Tobacco leaves, enjoying a cigar, making a cigar and leaves drying

That night in the town square we were offered Salsa dancing lessons for $10 and enjoyed half an hour each of private tuition from 2 talented instructors. The next day we hopped in a 1957 Chevrolet Taxi for the return trip back to Havana, staying overnight in our original homestay, before leaving to return home. We really enjoyed our stay in Cuba and the wonderful and helpful people we met despite difficult circumstances. Would love to come back one day.

Ghosts of the Revolution

 31 March to 2 April 2018 - Cuba 

Our cruise finally deposited us back in Havana, Cuba. We stayed in a little homestay with Ana and Caly, who looked after us by providing filling breakfasts and helping us to organise a trip to Venales. They showed tremendous patience dealing with our limited Spanish and frantic hand signals.

Our time in Havana was a real eye opener. Due to decades of embargos there were huge shortages of nearly everything. Restaurants had limited meals available depending on what food they could get on the day and grocery stores were mostly empty. A lot of the cars were over 50 years old and lovingly nursed and cajoled to keep going by whatever means necessary. It was not uncommon to see these old cars in parts on the street being worked on. They gave a lovely atmosphere to the city, which felt like stepping into the past. People were friendly and understanding and we felt quite safe. You get the impression the Cubans look after each other.

Fixing old cars, street art, Hemingway's pub and street soccer.

The next day we went for a walk down the main avenue marveling at the wonderful old building architecture and random artwork and painting occurring down the middle. That night we went to watch the iconic show at the Buena Vista Social Club. The $30 ticket included 2 drinks and a snack (cheese, nuts and olives). The show was extensive and energetic including a fabulous instrumental bit and several times where they got everyone up dancing, including a conga line and finishing with us all dancing on the stage. We walked home safely at midnight, a 30 minute walk.

Buena Vista Social Club, Grand Theatre of Havana

We used the last day to wander through the Museum of the Revolution. It was a fascinating insight into this period and the circumstances surrounding it. The exhibit included the boat they used to carry 82 revolutionaries from Mexico (built to hold 20), a tractor with armour applied (Mad Max style) and a bullet ridden delivery truck. It was interesting to read how with their free education they have one of the highest literacy rates in the world and the most doctors per capita. Clearly they tried to do the best they could with what they had.

Museum of the Revolution

The Capital building

Lots of street activity

Lots of old cars

Beneath the waves and a shot of rum

 20th to 30th March 2018 – The Caribbean – Excursions

At port in Honduras

Jamaica

Our first port of call was Montego Bay in Jamaica. We decided on a leisurely half day guided tour. This included a visit to Sam Sharpe Square, a local hero who fought against slavery and 'The Cage', a simple brick building that was used to lock up runaway slaves, vagrants and drunks. Then it was off to John Hall's Plantation for a nature walk and where we had a lovely Jamaican lunch and topped off with samples of rum while a resident band played Jamaican music in the background. The day finished with a visit to a local beach before going back to the boat.

On our nature walk

From top and left to right. The Cage, Sam Sharpe Square, and on our nature walk

The Submarine

Cayman Islands

Our second port was Georgetown in the Cayman Islands. 55% of its economy is from the financial services industry and it has A LOT of banks. This is one of those places where the rich and famous put their money. With a lot of excursions on offer the one that piqued our interest was a trip in a submarine. Well considering that we had never been in a submarine before it was an easy choice. Ahoy, up periscope! This was an awesome trip in a small submarine that went  to a depth of around 30m and explored nearby coral reefs and we saw many fish, including stingrays in their natural environment.

Beneath the waves

Around town

Honduras

Our third port was Isla de Roatan in Honduras, a tiny island of 65,000 just off the coast of Honduras. Our excursion was a nature hike. It took us through some wonderful scenery, across a rickety suspension bridge and exposed us to many agoutis and Capuchin monkeys and through an amazing butterfly enclosure. 

On Cruise Control

20th to 30th March 2018 – The Caribbean 

From Costa Rica we were heading to Cuba to hop on a cruise in the Caribbean on MSC. Things did not begin well when we missed the plane because they moved the gate and we did not hear the call. So we sat there at the wrong gate until it was clear nothing was happening. On inquiry we were told the gate was moved and we were too late to catch the plane. We were put on another flight, losing over 3 hours, our lift to the boat and a leisurely boarding. Luckily on arrival at Cuba we were able to find a coach to take us to the boat cheap, after a 2 hour wait for luggage. Aah traveling, you really need to be ready and flexible for anything to happen. 

Cruising is really the closest I imagine to being royalty. We always go for an internal, no windows cabin because they are cheap, dark and the most stable on the ship. Considering we only use the cabin for sleeping and are running around filling the day with activities, we do not see the point in paying for anything fancy. Every morning is spent going through the day's program and trying to schedule in as many activities that we enjoy as possible in the day ahead. Our favorite activities including dancing, learning a language, quizzes and the like. The day always starts at the gym before breakfast and will finish with a Broadway quality show or 2 in the evening before bed. We really get our money's worth.

Broadway quality shows nightly

Food is generally continuously available during the day with a rotating buffet and morning and afternoon teas. At MSC dinner was always at the same restaurant on a set table with the same set of passengers. You had the option of doing buffet or going to one of the fancier restaurants for a fee, but why bother? Food on MSC was not of the same quality or options for a gluten free traveler as we were used to on our other cruises but we got on very well with the passengers at our table and so dinner was always pleasant and filled with interesting conversations. 

Our dance troupe

We enjoyed the many dancing opportunities with the cruise instructors Katiuska and Ariel. They included specific dance lessons to more line dancing activities. We turned up late to a dance lesson on our second day and were unaware it was practice for a coming show focusing on the talents of passengers and crew, a talent show so to speak. When we realised what was happening we (meaning Michael) were mortified and tried to back out but were convinced to stay. We learnt this dance over the course of the cruise and against Michael's better judgment, became part of the entertainment. It was Michael's first, last and only ever time in a stage show.

 

Dancing for our supper

Besides the many days of cruise only travel we also stopped at many countries around the Caribbean where we had the opportunity of leaving the ship and having day trips at these other locations. I will elaborate on our excursions on the next post but here I would like to focus on one day when we went into port in Mexico and decided NOT to leave the ship. Most people leave so the advantage of staying is that you get the run of the ship and are able to do many activities that are normally too busy. At the nightly dinner we would normally pass around photos and share stories of our day, so we decided to document our day on the ship. Enjoy the movie below of our day.

 

The last full day on the boat was filled with dancing, eating and watching shows. Aaahh, nothing quite like cruising to relax and forget the wider world, where shall we sail to next...does it matter?

Saying goodbye to our new favorite

14th to 19th March 2018 - Costa Rica

Cahuita National Park

After our sojourn in Panama we returned to Puerto Viejo in Costa Rica. Having been to the coffee plantation and the animal rescue centre it was time to hike some of the nature the area provided. Our first trip was by public bus out to the Cahuita National Park. You pay by donation to get access to an 8km long trek along the beach on one side and dense forest on the other. The wildlife was plentiful and we came across several sleeping sloths, a bunch of white faced Capuchin monkeys, and a sleepy Coatimundi resting on a branch with legs hanging on either side and looking up occasionally. Later on while eating lunch we came across a very cheeky Coatimundi that would not give up trying to sneak up and beg for our food. Obviously fed by too many tourists. We had brought a gluten free carrot cake and Elizabeth had to move away from him to finish her half.

A lovely hike

Full of amazing creatures

A cheeki Coatimundi 

The next day was supposed to be spent at the Bribri waterfalls, but the bus driver forgot to let us off at the correct stop and ended up at the town of Bribri. We tried to walk back to find the waterfalls but were unsuccessful. It was hot and eventually we gave up and caught a bus back. We never found them.

The next day we walked from our hotel back into town to catch the bus back to San Jose for a few days before catching a plane to Cuba. On the walk we saw an uncharacteristically active sloth, presumably down from the tree on its once a week toilet trip. His efforts attracted quite a crowd as seeing a moving Sloth is very rare.

Some more photos from Cahuita National Park and back in Puerto Viejo

We had a free day in San Jose and started it with a 3 hour walking tour, getting to know the town a little deeper. We then spent the rest of the day exploring on our own, soaking in the culture, enjoying the architecture and finished the day in the early evening at the Festival of Arts & Music in Parque Nacional. Such lucky timing and a lovely day filled with sights, smells, sounds and music to finish our time in the fabulous Costa Rica.

Pictures around town in San Jose

The Festival

A Panama interlude among the Starfish

11th to 13th March 2018 - Panama

As we were now close to Panama we decided to repeat the idea we had at the top of Costa Rica when we dropped into Nicaragua. Being a short bus trip away we decided on a 3 day tour into the Bocas Del Toro region in Panama. This area consists of a chain of islands in the Caribbean sea. We arrived on the main island, Isla Colon in the early afternoon, staying at the Gran Hotel Bahia. After a busy day we just had a short wander around the town and ate at a new Italian Restaurant next door, guided on the food choices by its very friendly Italian American owner. He convinced us to eat much too much and we then ran into an Australian who was traveling permanently, so we whiled the night away with friendly banter of back home.

The next morning we took a boat tour to spend a day out at the uninhabited Zapatilla Island and its pristine beaches. This is such a small island we were told it would only take half an hour to walk completely around. We decided to test that and set off for a hike. Two hours later, after fighting through dense bush that went right up to and into the sea, we stumbled out of the trees to just barely make it on to the boat as it was preparing to leave. The boat took us to an area to snorkel but there was not a lot in the ocean to see, though we did spot some dolphins, sloths in the trees dotted around the islands and some pretty starfish. That night we found an amazing Indian restaurant on the wharf called Om Cafe with the tables right over the water.

Om Cafe

Our final day out on the water was spent at Playa Estrallas (Starfish Beach). Over a 3 hour period we found many beautiful starfish, went for a walk along the beach, discovered a mangrove forest and saw what looked like a meeting of seagulls along a line of pylons. We made some new friends, Miguel & Jolita from New York (originally from Panama and Honduras) and Paola from Argentina. The next day we left our Caribbean adventure interlude and traveled back to Costa Rica.

Jolita, Paola and Elizabeth

Chocolate is the Secret Ingredient

8th to 10th March 2018 - Puerto Viejo

Cacao trees among the lush forest in the Caribeans Chocolate Company

So we started in the centre of Costa Rica and from there we went Northeast. We then crossed the country finishing in the Northwest and popping into Nicaragua. Then we headed down to the bottom Southwest corner. So it was only logical to completely cross the country to the Southeast. That consisted of a long day trip in several vehicles to the town of  Puerto Viejo. This lovely little town has a real Caribbean vibe and a Rastafarian culture with stunning beaches, lush jungles and abundant wildlife. 

Even though the first day was raining, we decided to go and do the chocolate tour at the Caribeans Coffee and Chocolate Company. When you are on holiday and only in each place a few days you cannot let the weather slow you down. During a break in the rain we walked the 2.5km to the chocolate plantation. The Costa Rica chocolate industry had been destroyed by a fungus due to settlers wanting to grow bananas. So as to avoid that fate the cacao trees are grown in synergy with the rainforest itself amongst the other flora to give it protection and a unique flavor. 

We learned and experienced a lot on the tour that over time became increasingly wet. We picked, cracked open and tasted the cacao directly from the fruit itself. Back at the main factory we followed the bean through the whole process of drying, roasting and tempering. We also had a chocolate tasting where we helped ourselves to flakes of chocolate and added it to a large variety of spices and herbs such as garlic, pepper, coffee, ginger, cayenne, salt and many more and finished with a chocolate and spices drink. The rain only added to the atmosphere while we enjoyed the explosions of unique flavors and combinations.

Cacao Fruit, Owner, Chocolate Tasting, Making Chocolate

The next day was slightly drier so we took the 5km walk to the Jaguar Rescue Centre. No jaguars in attendance, but it did have a ton of sloths, lots of active baby ones. We learned tons about them including that they can be noisy and fast when fighting and are pretty much grumpy hermits that can be dangerous if you do not leave them alone. That they only go to the toilet once a week, at the base of their own home tree, digestion takes ages, and that a whole ecosystem of other inhabitants live on their fur. Reminded me of a book I used to read to my son called Murgatroyds Garden, about a kid who refused to wash his hair, culminating in his hair becoming a jungle full of creatures.

Sloths

We also saw many mischievous monkeys, some interacting with a very hungry wandering deer and a sprightly small squirrel & a pig. Many other marvelous but damaged animals were seen, looked after by very dedicated and knowledgeable volunteers. 

Dinner, like the night before, was eaten at Madre Tierra, which stands for Mother Earth. With many unique vegetarian gluten free options it was the perfect fit for another slice of Costa Rica fabulousness.