A Panama interlude among the Starfish

11th to 13th March 2018 - Panama

As we were now close to Panama we decided to repeat the idea we had at the top of Costa Rica when we dropped into Nicaragua. Being a short bus trip away we decided on a 3 day tour into the Bocas Del Toro region in Panama. This area consists of a chain of islands in the Caribbean sea. We arrived on the main island, Isla Colon in the early afternoon, staying at the Gran Hotel Bahia. After a busy day we just had a short wander around the town and ate at a new Italian Restaurant next door, guided on the food choices by its very friendly Italian American owner. He convinced us to eat much too much and we then ran into an Australian who was traveling permanently, so we whiled the night away with friendly banter of back home.

The next morning we took a boat tour to spend a day out at the uninhabited Zapatilla Island and its pristine beaches. This is such a small island we were told it would only take half an hour to walk completely around. We decided to test that and set off for a hike. Two hours later, after fighting through dense bush that went right up to and into the sea, we stumbled out of the trees to just barely make it on to the boat as it was preparing to leave. The boat took us to an area to snorkel but there was not a lot in the ocean to see, though we did spot some dolphins, sloths in the trees dotted around the islands and some pretty starfish. That night we found an amazing Indian restaurant on the wharf called Om Cafe with the tables right over the water.

Om Cafe

Our final day out on the water was spent at Playa Estrallas (Starfish Beach). Over a 3 hour period we found many beautiful starfish, went for a walk along the beach, discovered a mangrove forest and saw what looked like a meeting of seagulls along a line of pylons. We made some new friends, Miguel & Jolita from New York (originally from Panama and Honduras) and Paola from Argentina. The next day we left our Caribbean adventure interlude and traveled back to Costa Rica.

Jolita, Paola and Elizabeth

Chocolate is the Secret Ingredient

8th to 10th March 2018 - Puerto Viejo

Cacao trees among the lush forest in the Caribeans Chocolate Company

So we started in the centre of Costa Rica and from there we went Northeast. We then crossed the country finishing in the Northwest and popping into Nicaragua. Then we headed down to the bottom Southwest corner. So it was only logical to completely cross the country to the Southeast. That consisted of a long day trip in several vehicles to the town of  Puerto Viejo. This lovely little town has a real Caribbean vibe and a Rastafarian culture with stunning beaches, lush jungles and abundant wildlife. 

Even though the first day was raining, we decided to go and do the chocolate tour at the Caribeans Coffee and Chocolate Company. When you are on holiday and only in each place a few days you cannot let the weather slow you down. During a break in the rain we walked the 2.5km to the chocolate plantation. The Costa Rica chocolate industry had been destroyed by a fungus due to settlers wanting to grow bananas. So as to avoid that fate the cacao trees are grown in synergy with the rainforest itself amongst the other flora to give it protection and a unique flavor. 

We learned and experienced a lot on the tour that over time became increasingly wet. We picked, cracked open and tasted the cacao directly from the fruit itself. Back at the main factory we followed the bean through the whole process of drying, roasting and tempering. We also had a chocolate tasting where we helped ourselves to flakes of chocolate and added it to a large variety of spices and herbs such as garlic, pepper, coffee, ginger, cayenne, salt and many more and finished with a chocolate and spices drink. The rain only added to the atmosphere while we enjoyed the explosions of unique flavors and combinations.

Cacao Fruit, Owner, Chocolate Tasting, Making Chocolate

The next day was slightly drier so we took the 5km walk to the Jaguar Rescue Centre. No jaguars in attendance, but it did have a ton of sloths, lots of active baby ones. We learned tons about them including that they can be noisy and fast when fighting and are pretty much grumpy hermits that can be dangerous if you do not leave them alone. That they only go to the toilet once a week, at the base of their own home tree, digestion takes ages, and that a whole ecosystem of other inhabitants live on their fur. Reminded me of a book I used to read to my son called Murgatroyds Garden, about a kid who refused to wash his hair, culminating in his hair becoming a jungle full of creatures.

Sloths

We also saw many mischievous monkeys, some interacting with a very hungry wandering deer and a sprightly small squirrel & a pig. Many other marvelous but damaged animals were seen, looked after by very dedicated and knowledgeable volunteers. 

Dinner, like the night before, was eaten at Madre Tierra, which stands for Mother Earth. With many unique vegetarian gluten free options it was the perfect fit for another slice of Costa Rica fabulousness.

Floating Over Paradise

 4th to 7th March 2018

It was time to have a rest from volcanoes and head to the beach, the beach at Manuel Antonio National Park that is. Listed by Forbes as one of the most beautiful in the world and located at the lower west corner, it was the natural progression of our travels around Costa Rica. 

Hotel Coco Beach was just across the road and a short walk from a long line of beaches and was at the top of a hill surrounded by palm trees. After a day of doing chores and picking up supplies from the nearby town of Quepos we went down to Espadilla Beach. Just before Manuel Antonio Beach, one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, they were offering parasailing tours. We had never parasailed before and being such an idyllic location the decision was made that if we were ever going to do it then this was a good place to do it in. 

Late in the afternoon with the sunset soon approaching we prepared for this new experience. As the tide was coming in we had less run area to get into the air so we needed to get moving fast. As the boat accelerated we parted with the ground but Elizabeth did not quite land her bum in the seat properly. The guy in the boat was waving frantically while Elizabeth kept trying to lift herself into the seat properly as she was half hanging out of the harness. As the guy indicated that he was about to abandon the attempt I reached over and heaved Elizabeth into the seat. Disaster averted we continued on to an amazing ride over the ocean and rocky outcrops as the sun started to set. Coming down was a lot easier as the boat just slows down and you gently parachute into the water. Can I say now that I have parachuted? 

The next day we went to explore the Manuel Antonio National Park. It was a wonderful day in one of the best national parks in the world. It has everything. Abundant wildlife including Capuchin, Howler and Squirrel monkeys and the elusive sloth. In fact along one path you had to watch where you stepped otherwise you might trip over a raccoon. It has wonderful beaches, well marked and numerous trails through dense forest and many high lookouts for amazing sweeping views. We spent all day there, past closing time, attempting to follow every trail, take pictures at every lookout and visit every beach.

That night we had a very satisfying dinner at Las Gemalas Restaurant at a sidewalk table watching fire throwing busking jugglers in the middle of the street. 

The next day was our last day and we spent it lounging on the beach and swimming. It was one of those beaches that stayed shallow for a long time and you had to go quite far to catch a wave, but a very good paddling beach. Hiring a couple of umbrella covered lounge chairs cost $10 and allowed us to enjoy the sunshine safely and comfortably. That night we ate at Las Gemalas again but decided to cross the road and eat at one of their tables that they place on the beach itself. Quite a unique experience dining while under the stars and with sand between your toes and the sounds of waves crashing. Magic.

Howling Monkeys and an Anniversary of Waterfalls

 March 2018

Getting out of Nicaragua was a lot easier than getting in. Going through customs was nearly optional, quite a few people seemed to be bypassing it. Caught a bus on the border to Liberia and from there the only way to the Buena Vista Resort at the base of the Rincon de la Vieja (old woman’s corner) volcano was by taxi. Tucked away in dense bush this place was an eco paradise. With a vast number of criss crossing hanging bridges there was a surprise awaiting around every corner.

One day we were wandering across the bridges when we heard a loud overpowering howling. Cripes we thought, there is something big and nasty in here. As we got closer, it got louder and I expected to come across a large gorilla. To our surprise the noise was coming out of a fairly small monkey with a really big voice. A howling baby comes to mind. We stood for a while watching these howling monkeys swinging from branch to branch. 

Another day we went to step on a bridge and saw up ahead a python stretched across the bridge. Oh oh we thought, looks like we are not getting any further. We stood taking pictures while the snake slithered to one side of the bridge and then kept going, seemingly suspended in mid air, until it reached a branch and then pulled the rest of its body over. We hastily went across the bridge. On turning back we saw the python returning to its original spot, apparently only moving to get out of the way for us.

 

Another highlight of the resort was the natural hot springs and volcanic mud baths. The process goes like this: You take a tractor ride from the resort up to the springs. First step is to spend 10 minutes in the sauna to ‘open the pores’. This is a big room crammed with about 20 people on long benches. Once your pores are sufficiently opened you go around the corner where they have clay pots filled with hot volcanic mud that you slather all over yourself and each other. You let that dry until you are as stiff as a statue and look like one before taking an outside shower or letting yourself be hosed down by a staff member. Finally you leisurely take your pick from a number of pools fed by hot springs of varying temperatures. This was so luxurious and relaxing we did it every day, 3 times 👌🙂

The hotel also had a lookout reserved as the ‘sunset spot’. If you were around at the right time then that was the place to go with sweeping views all the way to the ocean and glorious sunsets.

Day 2 at the resort was the day of our 21st Anniversary. Of course the best way to make it special is to visit a volcano, right? We got up early for the hour long drive to the volcano national park on the Las Pailas side. Having a choice of multiple trails we selected the one to the Cangreja waterfall, which was supposed to flow into a swimmable brilliant blue pool. After an interesting 2 hour trek that seamlessly flowed from forest to desert and then to forest again and took us past streams of ants, iguanas and birds, we came to a waterfall that had a 'no swimming' sign on it. Beautiful anyway and flowed into a pool not of brilliant blue but the more cloudy glacier type blue. Some people swam in it anyway but we decided to just drink in the serenity. 

 After that trek we took the hour and a half trail around the geologically active region of bubbling mud pots and smoking fumaroles. With very tired legs (well me anyway) we got back and went on the last ride to the hot springs again. Just 5 of us there by that time & almost dark on our tractor ride back.

By day 3 at the resort we were way too relaxed, wandering the hanging bridges again, visiting the hot springs and letting the final sunset wash over us. As had become our pattern here we went and had our final buffet dinner, saying goodbye to our waiter Eloy, and went back to our room to prepare for the next leg of our journey the following day.

The little Island that Packs a Wallop

After the cloud forest we decided to go up to the North West corner of Costa Rica where another active volcano lay. But since we were so close to Nicaragua we thought we should first pop in to have a look. Imagine our pleasant surprise to find that not far from the border was the largest lake in Central America and in the middle of this lake was an island and on this island were TWO VOLCANOES!

So no need to ask us twice and we skipped the touristy beach and made our way straight to the island of volcanoes! We took a variety of transport to Ometepe, including taxis, shuttle buses and a ferry. Once arrived at the hotel we enquired about the possibility of climbing one of the volcanoes and were put on a tour for the next day.

Volcan Concepcion is an active pristine volcano at 1,610m. It was heavy going, straight up with fairly dense bush for four hours got us to 1,000m and the main lookout spot. We stopped for lunch and discussed going further. Even though the young-uns had left us behind we decided to keep going until we met them coming back down and see how far we could get. The second section was steeper and sparser and there was a third section that you need to do on your hands and knees. We got to 1,250m before the clouds started coming in and we decided it was getting too dodgy and we would not have enough time to get to the top. So we went back down to the lookout and had a lunch of chips and nuts. The young-uns soon rejoined us and we headed back down. A relaxing dinner at the hotel was what the doctor ordered and we took it easy playing with the hotel’s supposedly stray kitten and taking a pleasant walk through the town.

The Lookout

The next day required some recovery time so we settled on a private tour of the island with Oscar the taxi driver, starting with the Chaco Verde nature park. This place was a nature paradise and we saw many water birds, wandering horses, howling monkeys, vibrant colourful flowers and the fantastic enclosure with the brilliant blue Morpheus butterflies. Next to the natural mineral springs of Ojos de Agua to soothe those tired legs, lunch and then finish the day at the famous sunset spot of Puenta Jesus Mana beach.

About where Elizabeth bonked her head

This was a stretch of beach that protruded out from the mainland coming to a point. This also concentrated the people into a tiny area that had a surprisingly large number of bars along the sandy outcrop. We got there a bit early for the sunset so Elizabeth decided to use her time picking up the ample amounts of rubbish dropped by the mostly bar patrons. Me? I decided just to watch the sun come down, not being as altruistic as Elizabeth. Soon I heard a commotion behind and turned around to see a group of men frantic around Elizabeth. Rushing back I discovered that Elizabeth had bonked her head on a tree branch while bending to pick up rubbish. No good deed goes unpunished. We struggled with trying to remember the word for ice (hielo) and were directed to a bartender who generously provided a few handfuls. After that ordeal I was able to convince Elizabeth to keep still for 10 minutes and enjoy the sunset with me.

The Hostel Restaurant

The next day was a complete rest day lounging around the hotel pool and talking to other tourists about their experiences, and discovering a surprisingly cheap and colourful hostel restaurant to eat dinner in, complete with begging ginger cat.

Finally the day of my birthday arrived, and there is only one true way to celebrate my birthday while travelling, hike up another volcano! The trek up the Maderas volcano was not as challenging as Concepcion but was still a decent two hour trip up degenerating to walking on boulders on a dry river bed to the La Cascada San Ramon waterfall. Well worth the effort as this was an impressively long waterfall and we stripped down to our bathers and got into the pool to feel the splashing waterfall on our backs. Many other people arrived doing the same and there was a fabulous atmosphere and feeling of camaraderie. A perfect birthday and a perfect end to our side trip to Nicaragua.